Hi all,
I guided an ascent of Gibraltar wall today December 23rd. We had clear sky and temperatures between -11c and -3c. The wall is in good early season conditions with as many as 4 different climbable lines. The left head and right hand lines are in better shape than the center lines. We ascended the climber's right most line which provided good protection and generally plastic ice.
The ice on the wall was quite sun beat for this time of year, perhaps a reflection of the locally dry and clear conditions in the last few weeks. The thin exit ice lenses, which are overlying wet rock slabs, became quite unstable in the heat of the day. It generated some spontaneous ice fall down onto the left hand and center lines; the right hand line was significantly more protected. Due to the sun exposure of this route, colder temperatures or cloudy conditions would have been useful.
The road is in good conditions; mainly compact snow with the odd icy sections. There is very little snow on the ground in this area.
Happy holidays!
David Lussier
Mountain Guide, IFMGA/ACMG
www.summimountainguides.com
