[MCR] Rockies, Tokumm Pole

I guided an ascent of Tokumm Pole yesterday, March 9th. We had thought that we would pull our ropes after rappelling in and lead out, but I was happy to top rope. The first 8 meters of the route demands some acrobatic climbing over several roofs that would be very difficult to protect. Basically the route is lacking feet from having been climbed a bunch. The right side of the route was raining with water yesterday and will be growing and may present a more normal climb when dry.

Lots of cornices and large snow dollops overhang the canyon so be mindful of where you stand. One smacked down downstream from us yesterday. The high ice/gravel/dirty snow line of a flood in the canyon is over head level, think about how you can get out of there quick if the water level starts to rise.

Two parties climbed the WI 3/4 exit route 15 meters upstream from the Tokumm Pole.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com

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