[MCR] Mt.Lefroy

I guided an ascent of Mt.Lefroy on July 25th. The route is losing snow quickly and may not be in very enjoyable shape for long. Travel is good for now up to the middle of the route, but afterwards the snowpack thins, and the two pitches after the narrows are mainly ice. Parties will need to think ahead about how they will descend the route. Rockfall on the West face of Lefroy was audible all afternoon starting around noon,  finishing the route early in the morning felt like the right thing to do. 

As per Kris Irwin's post, the SE ridge of Mt.Victoria is in very good shape. Probably the biggest hazard is that the word is out, and many folks are showing up to climb the route. There were a few parties on the mountain yesterday, but we all coordinated so that no team was exposed to rockfall hazard from above, it's worth a talk with others that are on the mountain. The sickle has some icy sections, but many of the snow can be bypassed on rock. Things would get pretty sporty if you forgot your crampons. 

Excellent weather over the past week, with some refreeze of the snow overnight. 

Jason Billing

ACMG Alpine Guide/Apprentice Ski Guide

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures