I climbed Shades Of Beauty on November 27th the climb is located along the
Icefields Parkway in Jasper National Park. While valley bottom temperatures
were -17 at 08:00 at the elevation of the climb it was 10 degrees warmer.
I would describe the route as in early season conditions. The first pitch
was well formed but a little wet. The lower angle ice seemed to fracture a
lot. The second pitch had lots of chandelier ice with good ice mushrooms to
stand on. The protection was marginal but I found it easy to place lots of
screws while standing on the mushrooms. The last pitch, which can be split,
was in good shape but quite wet. The mid station is not yet ice covered and
would be uncomfortable to use as it hangs high from the rocks. The quick
link is rusted and should not be trusted. The top station is in good
condition.
Rupert Wedgwood Mountain Guide, Visitor Safety Specialist, Jasper National
Park of Canada
Rupert Wedgwood
Visitor Safety Specialist UIAGM /IFMGA/ ACMG
Jasper National Park of Canada | Parc national du Canada Jasper
Parks Canada | Parcs Canada
P.O. Box 10, Jasper AB T0E 1E0 | C.P. 10, Jasper (Alberta) T0E 1E0
rupert.wedgwood@pc.gc.ca
Telephone | Téléphone 780-852-7837
Facsimile | Télécopieur 780-852-4775
Government of Canada | Gouvernement du Canada
www.pc.gc.ca/jasper
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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Thursday, November 28, 2013
MCR Archive
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2013
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November
(47)
- [MCR] Rogan's Gully - Cascade Mountain, BNP
- [MCR] Shades Of Beauty Nov 27th
- [MCR] Early Season Glacier Skiing, Glacier Nationa...
- [MCR] Bourgeau Right
- [MCR] Chester Lake
- [MCR] Kananaskis, Rocky Mountains
- [MCR] Avalanche Season in the Rockies
- [MCR] Amadeus, Kananaskis, Nov. 24
- [MCR] Field Ice Routes - Photos
- [MCR] Dome Glacier avalanche, Rogers Pass, Nov 20,...
- [MCR] Dome Glacier Avalanche - Rogers Pass - Glaci...
- [MCR] Maligne Lake area, Jasper
- [MCR] Kootenay Pass, Southern Selkirk Mountains
- [MCR] Rogers Pass - Mt Macdonald ice
- [MCR] Hilda Ridge/Parkers Area
- [MCR] Field - Carlsberg Column
- [MCR] Selkirks.
- [MCR] Polar Circus
- [MCR] weeping wall
- [MCR] Moonlight, Snowline, 2low4zero
- [MCR] Murchison Falls
- [MCR] Purcells , Bugaboos skiing
- [MCR] Selkirk Mountains - Rogers Pass - Asulkan dr...
- [MCR] South Coast ~ Fitzsimmons Range Front-Country
- [MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for ...
- [MCR] Rockies: Bow Summit
- [MCR] Selkirk Mountains - Rogers Pass - Asulkan dr...
- [MCR] Black prince access - Kananaskis country
- [MCR] Rogers Pass avalanche cycle Nov.19/2013
- [MCR] Black Prince, Kananaskis, Rocky Mountains
- [MCR] Kananaskis. Black prince to Engadine lodge t...
- [MCR] Kootenay Pass, Southern Selkirk Mountains
- [MCR] Selkirk Moutains - Rogers Pass - Connaught C...
- [MCR] Rockies Grizzly Bear sited in Field
- [MCR] Wapta Icefields Conditions
- [MCR] Field - Guinness Stout
- [MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for ...
- [MCR] King Creek and Guinness Gully
- [MCR] Revelstoke - Waterworld
- [MCR] Amadeus, Kananaskis
- [MCR] Urs Hole
- [MCR] Mt McCrae correction
- [MCR] Southern Monashees – Mt McCrae
- [MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for ...
- [MCR] Amadeus, Kananaskis
- [MCR] Delayed access for skiing and Ice Climbing i...
- [MCR] Avalanche involvement - Ranger Creek
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November
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