Lots of recent winds transport in the gully along the approach, but we were able to avoid or minimize our exposure to any loaded pockets. No whumphing or cracking observed, but the hardslab with facets below didn't inspire too much confidence. Not much snow in the bowl above right now (see picture).
The climb was totally dry and starting to sublimate, but still in good shape. Brittle ice made for challenging climbing. Some small gear is useful to back up a dodgy piton at the start of the traverse.
Ian Jackson
ACMG Mountain Guide
