Hello Subscribers,
Climbed the lower right hand side and to within 20 meters of the top of the upper wall yesterday February 12th with Elisabeth D. Our strategy was to leave very early for this route given the forecasted temperatures and strong solar effect on these climbs. Our timing was perfect and the sun met us just before the last pitch.
Lower right side was in excellent shape in the early morning, offering soft newly formed ice with lots one one swing sticks and good protection.
On the upper wall ice quality started diminishing on the second to last pitch with newly formed ice over sun rotted ice. It got worse halfway through the final pitch as you traverse from the left side and around to the front of the pillar. Lots of very wet chandeliery ice has formed over poor sun-rotted ice and no decent protection could be found – trust me I tried. I down climbed back into behind the pillar where you can find excellent ice and we started our descent from there.
By 1 p.m. all lines on the lower wall were running with water and the solar effect was strong.
Upper Weeping Wall
Kristopher Irwin – ACMG Alpine Guide
