[MCR] Sir Donald Rappel Stations (# 11 & 12 reposition and replacement)

Hello Everyone,

Last posting unfortunately the photo wasn't attached - pardon me.

I hope everyone has been enjoying the fine weather up until now.

It was reported to us towards the end of this summer that the last Sir Donald descent rappel (# 12) was damaged as a result of a rockfall event that likely took place this spring.

Myself and Danyelle Magnan climbed up 1/3 of the NW Ridge route and then descended from station # 5, where the rap route leaves the ridge and descends the face.  Our aim was to assess the damage to station # 12 (the last one) and to possibly reposition the station to avoid exposing climbers to additional rockfall exposure as well as repeated damage to the stations themselves.  Upon arriving there it was evident that the station # 11 had sustained some damage as well.

There is a very big and obvious light coloured rock scar in the large left-facing corner system above these last two stations (approximately 150 meters above) with enormous precarious looking blocks that remain from that aforementioned rockfall event. Additionally, there are loads of very unstable and loose rocks strewn all about the ledges just below this station which adds additional rockfall potential when pulling the rope after the rappel.

We repositioned the stations approximately 40-45 meters to the climber's left or skier's right on the darker quartzite which mitigates the overhead hazards and will keep folks out of the pain funnel. They are both 25m raps. The route description remains the same. If you are familiar with the old stations, rather than traversing into the light coloured rock, continue to scramble/downclimb ~10m staying in the dark coloured (ie. not scarred) rock. Station # 11 is now ~ 40m to skiers right of the old location. The bottom of the 11th rappel puts you on another sloping ledge just above an big overhanging break which is visible below you from that station.  The final rap (Station # 12), takes you over an overhang and is a free-hanging rap for about 3-4 meters, then on to the lower angle slabs and finally to the scree/talus at the bottom
 
* Please note station # 12 needs an additional anchor bolt which will be installed early next week - for anyone going up there in the next few days, a .75 or 1 Camalot will back up that single bolt *


Play Safe,


Paddy Jerome
IFMGA Mountain Guide
Visitor Safety Technician
Mount Revelstoke & Glacier National Parks
Ph. 250 814 3524
patrick.jerome@pc.gc.ca

[MCR] Sir Donald Rappel Stations (# 11 & 12 reposition and replacement)

Hello Everyone,

I hope everyone has been enjoying the fine weather up until now.

It was reported to us towards the end of this summer that the last Sir Donald descent rappel (# 12) was damaged as a result of a rockfall event that likely took place this spring.

Myself and Danyelle Magnan climbed up 1/3 of the NW Ridge route and then descended from station # 5, where the rap route leaves the ridge and descends the face.  Our aim was to assess the damage to station # 12 (the last one) and to possibly reposition the station to avoid exposing climbers to additional rockfall exposure as well as repeated damage to the stations themselves.  Upon arriving there it was evident that the station # 11 had sustained some damage as well.

There is a very big and obvious light coloured rock scar in the large left-facing corner system above these last two stations (approximately 150 meters above) with enormous precarious looking blocks that remain from that aforementioned rockfall event. Additionally, there are loads of very unstable and loose rocks strewn all about the ledges just below this station which adds additional rockfall potential when pulling the rope after the rappel.

We repositioned the stations approximately 40-45 meters to the climber's left or skier's right on the darker quartzite which mitigates the overhead hazards and will keep folks out of the pain funnel. They are both 25m raps. The route description remains the same. If you are familiar with the old stations, rather than traversing into the light coloured rock, continue to scramble/downclimb ~10m staying in the dark coloured (ie. not scarred) rock. Station # 11 is now ~ 40m to skiers right of the old location. The bottom of the 11th rappel puts you on another sloping ledge just above an big overhanging break which is visible below you from that station.  The final rap (Station # 12), takes you over an overhang and is a free-hanging rap for about 3-4 meters, then on to the lower angle slabs and finally to the scree/talus at the bottom
 
* Please note station # 12 needs an additional anchor bolt which will be installed early next week - for anyone going up there in the next few days, a .75 or 1 Camalot will back up that single bolt *


Play Safe,


Paddy Jerome
IFMGA Mountain Guide
Visitor Safety Technician
Mount Revelstoke & Glacier National Parks
Ph. 250 814 3524
patrick.jerome@pc.gc.ca

Sir Donald raps- new 11-12 stn copy.jpg 371

[MCR] Joffre

Climbed the SE face of Joffre experiencing excellent neve snow and very dry rock. No rockfall at all observed despite summer like conditions. I recommend using the snow feature( looks like an angel) right of the climbers camp at 6600' as a way to reach the principal snow field on the E aspect of Joffre rather than the direct route through a boulder field and talus.
We ascended the tower immediately above the difficult step leading toward the summit ridge climbing above the col and traversing a ledge over the NE face couloir, which I believe is a better option than descending down and around from the col which looks like the direction many climbers are going.

Tim Pochay
IFMGA Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml/unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] Bugaboos

Chris Miller (Mountain Guide) and I just spent several days with a group in the Bugaboos. 

It is still late summer conditions there. Warm afternoon temperatures allowed groups to climb on shaded routes such as Wildflowers and Sunshine. Tuesday's storm did not put any snow on the peaks.

Glacier travel is crevassed but basically no change from previous reports. Climbing to B-S col is still doable around a few crevasses and schrunds, and with some scrappiness just before the col on what looked like ice and gravel (we didn't go there). 

The hut was getting shut down when we left yesterday so the electricity will be off and there will be no running water. I think there will still be propane but not sure. The ACC is still taking bookings for the hut until the seasonal closure that starts November 1.

Mark Klassen

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 27th, 2012

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 27th, 2012 The fine fall fetter continues in the mountains. Reports from all over the Rockies and Columbia's show that tuesday's rain seems to have generally left an average of 5cm of snow above 3000m. Enough to mean you should carry crampons in the high alpine but below that it is mainly autumn perfection once again. There is enough snow to mask some crevasses and make glacier travel complex in some places. This is really not the season to be walking unroped on any snow covered ice! Shady alpine rock routes along all the divides will probably be snowed up but front range rock should be excellent except for the deepest darkest gullies. Put a handwarmer in your chalk bag and get after it. Alpine ice will be coming along nicely, just keep an eye on the sun as the air is still surprisingly warm at times. These warm periods combined with the sun could easily create some rockfall in the alpine ice world. The skinny fall snows have not really created "much" in the way of skiing. Some features have been skied but I would keep my brand new skis safely stowed away for now. Short and sweet just like the days. Bring your gloves,woolies and headlamp and an early start. The fine weather ain't gonna last forever but it sure has made up for the june monsoon. Larry Stanier ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mt Assiniboine

Just returned from a beautiful 3 day trip to Mt. Assiniboine. We approached via Settlers Road, BC which worked well. Travel conditions were excellent and we were able to reach the Hind Hut in our approach shoes. We summitted the peak yesterday via the North Ridge and found dry conditions the whole way. We did not carry ice axe or crampons.

Cheers,
Andrew
Andrew Wexler
ACMG / IFMGA Mountain Guide
andrew@globalalpine.com
www.globalalpine.com
403-707-8615
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml/unsubscribe to remove your name from this list.

[MCR] North Face of Stanley September 23

I guided the North Face of Stanley yesterday September 23.  Despite the warm temps we had excellent conditions on the glacier and on the face.  The crux of the day was negotiating the bergschrund.  The bridge had collapsed (I am not sure how long ago).  About the middle left side (climbers left) there was a way, however there was a small section of over hanging ice to get to a shelf and then a ramp that headed up and out of the schrund.  The shelf's snow was pretty soft and was difficult to get a good purchase with the tools.  I am glad I had a long 65 cm ax and a technical ice climbing tool!

Marco Delesalle

 Mountain Guide

www.greatdividemountaineering.com

IMG_1328

 

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Marco Delesalle
IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide
www.greatdividemountaineering.com

1 403 609-5580
1 403 609-1074