Climbed the South Ridge on Mt. Fable a couple of days ago. Conditions were mostly dry and excellent until the upper rock pitches. Snow on the crux pitches & summit ridge made it more challenging than normal but a few more days of this heat and it should be mostly dried out.
The approach up the creek from Exshaw was easy going with a good trail punched through the remaining patches of snow.
Descending from the summit we found it easiest to head down the ridge for about 5 minutes and then drop off skiers right (North East) onto scree, NOT onto the West side as the guidebook says. From there it was easy to contour around to the col.
A few midsize cams, a set of nuts, and 1 rope did the trick. Pitons would be usefull if you ended up having to descend the route. There were some fixed anchors that would help if you had to rappel but they were in bad spots for belaying. Crampons were not needed.
Also climbed the ESE Ridge on Lady Macdonald (5.5) yesterday. It was dry in all of the difficult sections. Perhaps this is old news but the hangers have been removed off most of the bolts.
J. Mills
ACMG Alpine Guide
info@cdnalpine.com
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Friday, March 26, 2010
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2010
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March
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- [MCR] Rockies, Crowfoot Pass
- [MCR] Simpson Pass/Healy Pass
- [MCR] Selkirk Mountains, Goat Range, west of Kaslo
- [MCR] Wapta Traverse March 25-29
- [MCR] Selkirks and Rockies
- [MCR] Bow Summit
- [MCR] Rockies - Guinness Gully, Stout & HighTest
- [MCR] Rogers Pass / Illecilleweat Glacier - March 25
- [MCR] Kananaskis / Burstall Drainage
- [MCR] Selkirk Mountains, Goat Range, near Kaslo
- [MCR] Rockies - Mt. Fable S. Ridge
- [MCR] PWL followup
- [MCR] another persistent weak layer winter
- [MCR] South Coast Range ~ Overlord Glacier
- [MCR] Monashee Mountains, West of the Perry River,...
- [MCR] Haffner Creek and Icefields Parkway Ice Cond...
- [MCR] Carlsberg Column, Yoho National Park, Canadi...
- [MCR] Icefields Pkwy: Crowfoot Glades
- [MCR] Rockies, Wapta Traverse, March 16-21
- [MCR] Rogers Pass: Dome / Lilly Loop
- [MCR] Stanley Headwall Avalanche Conditions
- [MCR] Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park, March 13-20...
- [MCR] Goldstream / Adamant Ranges
- [MCR] South Coast Range ~ Mt. Pattison
- [MCR] Rockies: Balfour High Col
- [MCR] Boom lake neighbourhood
- [MCR] South Coast Range ~ Musical Bumps to Adit Creek
- [MCR] Wapta Icefields
- [MCR] Cline River Gallery, David Thompson Hwy.
- [MCR] Rockies, Guiness Gully and Guiness Stout
- [MCR] The Good Bad and Ugly-Ghost valley
- [MCR] Coire Dubh Integrale, Loder Peak Front range...
- [MCR] avalanche control Monday Icefields parkway, ...
- [MCR] Conditions in Southern Purcells
- [MCR] Bow Hut/Wapta
- [MCR] Selkirks / Whitewater Backcountry
- [MCR] Rockies, Coire Dubh Integral
- [MCR] Cougar-Evens Thomas
- [MCR] Curtain Call - Icefields Parkway
- [MCR] Northern Valhallas - 'Hare' Trigger Conditions
- [MCR] avalanche Mt Rundle
- [MCR] Ice fields parkway
- [MCR] Selkirk Mountains, Whitewater ski area
- [MCR] Bow-Mistaya Mar 8-10
- [MCR] Jasper National Park, The Andromeda Strain
- [MCR] ongoing avalanche problems in BC interior, S...
- [MCR] Louise Falls
- [MCR] Haffner Creek, KNP & The Professor Falls, BNP
- [MCR] Coire Dubh ice
- [MCR] Spray River Falls, Banff National Park
- [MCR] Wapta Traverse
- [MCR] Nemesis, Kootenay National Park
- [MCR] Mt. Yamnuska: Grillmair Chimneys
- [MCR] Northern Purcells: Purcell Lodge
- [MCR] South Coast Fissile Mt
- [MCR] South Coast Range ~ Overseer Mountain
- [MCR] Hydrophobia, Ghost River Valley
- [MCR] South Coast Range ~ North of Whistler
- [MCR] Nemesis, Stanley Headwall, KNP
- [MCR] Coire Duhb area descents
- [MCR] Loop Brook
- [MCR] Observation Sub Peak, Banff National Park
- [MCR] Spray River Falls
- [MCR] Rogers Pass/South Chilcotins
- [MCR] interior condiotions, Monashees
- [MCR] Tricky conditions in BC interior
- [MCR] South Coast Range ~ Spearhead Gl. area
- [MCR] Evan Thomas Ice
- [MCR] Super Bock, Field, BC
- [MCR] Solar affect on the ice.
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March
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