[MCR] Stanley Headwall Avalanche Conditions

I climbed Nemesis with a friend on Friday.

We were the first group to the base since last weeks snow fall and were pleased to see a significant amount of debris below the route from the bowl above it.  It also looked like the slope below Suffer Machine had slid early in the storm.  There were some fresh and rather large avalanches out on the approach slopes to the right of Suffer Machine but there is no sign of recent activity below French Reality.  I think any slope that is steep enough to slide but has not done so yet is suspect.  There are also a number of natural avalanches down on the climbers left side of the valley as you hike up and I would be suspicious of them later in the day once the sun has been on them for a while.  We carried transceivers, probes and shovels to the base and it felt like a good idea.

We lost the packed trail for a while on the lower moraine and had to wallow over to the debris in order to get to the base but now that a few parties have travelled it again it is possible to make it without skis or snowshoes.

The route is in great shape with not much swinging required if you follow the peg board of hooks to top.

Cheers,

Marc Piché
ACMG, IFMGA
Mountain Guide