[MCR] The Queen (Maligne Canyon) and Lady Wilson

Visitor Safety out on training days exploring some of the local ice conditions in the Jasper National Park forecast region.
Climbed the Queen in Maligne canyon on Sunday. Found it to be in typical shape, meaning it's somewhat aerated with lots of mushrooms requiring good protection skills on lead. Generally going at a headspacey 4+ on the left side of the pillar. Further to the right, sometimes referred to as the King is still quite wet and dripping, doesn't seem to be getting much travel yet. The last wall on the bottom end of the canyon is in it's normal state of abuse with the left side giving the only continuous line of ice to the top. The top out on all the climbs is very shallow and beaten up and never gets the chance to fully form. I'd suggest, if we could to try and avoid completely topping out on the many top ropes that get dropped it would give the ice a chance to fatten up, save our picks from getting beaten down and prevent the periodic rockfall coming down. The canyon is very popular with the Icewalk tours and the guides are great at controlling their groups around the climbs but there is a l
ot of the unaware general public without helmets so make sure to share the tight space when knocking ice down.

Climbed Lady Wilson's Cleavage to Wilson Major Basin on Monday. The Cleavage is giving very easy travel all the way to the basin with only two actual climbing steps of short easy ice (grade 2). A reasonably solid crust keeps you out of the facets for the majority of steps right from the road and up the drainage. The first step of ice is narrow and tends to push the left foot onto polished rock with only a small lens of ice at times. This can be easily by-passed to the left in the vegetation. The rest is easy walking with a couple of short ice steps. Wilson Major is in great shape with the majority of the middle curtain going at grade 5, the longest being a full 70m strenuous grade 5 to 5+. The left and right sides of the curtain offer the only moderate grade 3 to 3+/4 stepped climbs. The lower apron of snow leading to the climbs has a unsupportive 10cm crust over facets but is not a avalanche hazard at this time. Unseen and above is a very large avalanche slope that can load up with
south winds and had most of the Wilson snow field as fetch. We have no concerns for this releasing naturally at this time and we control this slope as part of our active avalanche road control. Debris will pummel Wilson Major, the cleavage and associated climbs in the feature with extreme prejudice. Although it is in Banff National Park it is in the Jasper Avalanche forecasting region and it should be part of your trip planning to make it a habit of considering both the Banff and Jasper Park bulletins when looking to climb on Mt. Wilson and Cirrus Mountain (Polar Circus and the Weeping Wall). For up to date photos of poplar climbs on the icefields parkway and the Mountain Parks check out our photo galleries on the Parks Mountain Safety Facebook page.

Jasper Visitor Safety
Jasper National Park
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
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