[MCR] Rockies - Stanley Headwall - Nemesis

With Swiss friends Silvan and Sam, and fellow guide Alex, we made an ascent of Nemesis today. Temps were moderate and skies were overcast. We found a supportive bootpack to both Suffer Machine and Killer Cave. We broke trail up the final slope to the route. Height of Snow was 40cm with a weak rain crust on top.

Because of conditions and the size of our group, we broke the route up into 4 pitches. P1 we climbed on the left in the groove. Even though this looked thin from the ground, it protected adequately with gold and blue screws. P2 we climbed two separate lines, one up a pillar and another in a fun chimney on the far left. P3 traversed from the big ledge climbing up through the mushrooms. P4 up great ice side by each on the far right.

Brent Peters
Alpine Guide
PeakStratagem.com

Nemesis