Marco D and I delicately inched our way up Happy Days today. A rarely formed climb next to Ice Nine on Mt. Wilson. Mild weather, good snow stability, and good ice conditions gave us the confidence to attempt the line today. A thin layer of cloud kept the solar heating down today.
Quick approach up the drainage on a mostly supportive snowpack. No slab properties in the approach gully and little snow in the terrain above the route. Debris near the base indicated a size 2 avalanche ran from above the route sometime in the last week. We noted surface hoar crystals 2-3mm in size on the approach slopes treeline and below.
Happy Days climbed at WI6+ X. First decent screw is at the roof, 20m off the deck, above the fractured pillar. Although the route has seen some traffic, the climbing is challenging and by no means hooked out.
Most of Ice Nine looks be in good shape, however the last 5 meters looks quite thin.
Kris Irwin - ACMG Alpine Guide
www.rockies-ice.com
Ice Nine
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Thursday, January 15, 2015
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