Climbed the Sorcerer (1st picture) a couple of days ago and found great conditions with mostly one swing tool placements and good gear throughout the route. There was a small cornice forming up on the climbers left side at the top.
The driving was quite good except for 2 creek crossings that had substantial ice shelves to get over. If you looked around a bit before you committed there were better spots to cross rather than where the tracks took you.
We climbed Murchison (2nd picture) the following day and found brittle ice that required quite a bit of cleaning. Good protected belay spots could be found and 70m ropes would have been nice for this route. There were no large daggers or cornices present.
The slope leading up to the base of the route had previously avalanched which made for decent walking through the big boulders. Both Lessons of Oka and But, My Daddy's a Psycho looked to be in good shape.
Cheers
Mike Stuart
Mountain Guide
