The Moonlight area is in great early season shape. In spite of the warming trend, the Evan Thomas climbs exhibited tension (shooting cracks from axe and crampon placements) from previous cold nights this morning. The upper sections of all three climbs are weeping and reforming. We climbed Snowline and 2 Low 4 Zero. Another party climbed Moonlight. We all found 10 and 13cm screws helpful for the first pitches.
A couple of notes for those who don't have recent beta:
1) There is an anchor on the ledge between Moonlight and Snowline (often covered later season). When climbing Snowline it is at about 65m. It is a 60m rope stretching rappel straight down to the ground.
2) There is an anchor on the ledge on the right above the small roof (1 bolt here) and steepest climbing on 2 Low 4 Zero at about 60m.
Of interest were the number of v-threads already in place on all routes and the size of cord that has been used. There are all sizes from what looked to be 4mm up to the standard 7mm. Also, a number of the threads have very short tails on the knots. I would encourage all climbers to inspect these threads before clipping them blindly for the quality (depth) of the thread, size and quality of cordage and knot. It does make sense to preserve the integrity of the dry and thin ice for threads to be in place and re-used instead of the inevitable honeycombing.
Brent Peters
Alpine Guide
Apprentice Ski Guide
PeakStratagem.com
