Fellow guides Alex Lawson, Ryan Titchener and I just returned from 5 days of guiding out of Rampart Creek.
Most of the ice climbs are still in early season conditions with thin and unconsolidated ice. There was little fracturing with the warm temps. The climbs are all snow covered requiring time and glove consuming cleaning. Bring the Goretex! And expect lensing.
The main flow at Tangle Falls is open. The area left supports a few ropes. The area in the trees to the right also supports a few ropes with open water on the ledge above.
Melt Out is thin with mushrooms. It has not filled in yet. It would be challenging for a beginner leader. P3 has open pools.
LHS Weeping Wall is discontinuous over the big ledge. RHS Weeping Wall has formed left of the main corner. Both Central and RHS climb with unconsolidated chandelier through the steeps.
Pure Energy is forming well. Evil Energy also climbs. The talus slope on the left is mostly free of ice right now.
Brent Peters
Alpine Guide
PeakStratagem.com
